Nevado Sajama 21,463ft painted looking NNE from Cerro Tara Kkollu 15,584 ft - 9 days · With EC ·Señora C · BH ·PH ·N · KR ·AV ·BV ·Saturday 22nd March 1997 · arrive at Estebans rancho · a group of low mud-brick grass roofed buildings and thatched hogans on the Khenwa Huichinca Pampa at 13,802' · pitch tents in a strong cold wind · the pampa here a mixture of dust and pumice and spiky grass grazed by llamas and alpacas surrounded by snow capped volcanoes · supper in a casita under the spell of a dried llama placenta · 23rd March · woken in the night by a distressing keening / howling · unexplained · up before sunrise · very cold · 24°F · a day hike looking for a painting site and find 2 (1) a large view of Sajama · (2) distant view W of Los Nevados Payachata · caught in a hailstorm and thunderstorm at 15800' we shelter under a tree · see wild Vicunas · 24th March · up at 6.30 · 16°F / -8°C · pack · EC and La Señora load the burros and I set off alone to consider site (1) at 15,584' · when the group arrive we set up camp by a glacial stream · after lunch I start drawing badly and finish at 5.30 · cold · with 3 worthwhile lines in place · 25th March · drawing all day ·La Señora guards our camp as I work · 26th March · 20°F · a clear day and sunny morning · affected by the altitude I paint badly until mid-afternoon when a good sky appears · snow lands on the paper as I paint ·La Señora sets fire to bushes around our camp before she leaves for the evening · we don't know why · 27th March · work until lunch when a snowstorm forces me to stop · spasmodic snow and hail all afternoon frustrate my efforts as I alternately work on site and in my tent · at 5.'30 in a heavy snowstorm I give up for the day · 28th March · tents buried in snow during the night · I sit outdoors in warm softly falling snow and work all morning in shirtsleeves and silence · in the afternoon I work in drizzle until 6:00 when the painting is resolved · a celebration for the wedding anniversary of BH and PH · 29th March · working all day in appalling weather at site (2) 15,870' · 30th March · pack · work on site (2) until 5:00 · walk back to Estebans · arriving at 7:00 · an extraordinary sunset holds us spellbound as we eat supper · round trip 11.6 miles · no other people.
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